Saint Petersburg



DINING

A Street Of Paradoxes

 
 

Sadovaya Street is one of St. Petersburg’s most enigmatic gastronomic thoroughfares in St. Petersburg. It is a very long street, but almost all the restaurants worthy of note are concentrated in a very small part of it.

“Gräs×Madbaren”

This geographical paradox begins with “Gräs×Madbaren” at the intersection with Engineer’s Street (7 Inzhenernaya Ul. T: 928 1818). It was originally a split-level restaurant with a kind of separate evening bar through the “hallway”. The latter appears to have been swallowed up by the former, and Anton Abrezov’s Northern cuisine is now in evidence throughout the restaurant. It is interesting food with a mass of surprising combinations and unexpected transformations. On your first visit you would be best advised to order a tasting set (2,500 roubles).

Excеrpt from thе “Gräs×Madbarеn” mеnu:

Roasted bell pepper soup with tomatoes — 390 roublеs

Chiken liver pate with strawberry balsamic — 330 roublеs

Squid with onion puree, ryazhenka and fennel — 420 roublеs

Braised lamb with figs and roasted carrots — 650 roublеs

Buckwheat panna cotta with cloudberry — 390 roublеs

“Baku”

A couple of buildings away on the same side of Sadovaya Street is “Baku”, an authentic Azerbaijani restaurant which has been in business for over forty years (12/23 Sadovaya Ul. T: (921) 910 7625). Emil Kovtun from Moscow is the current head chef. The cuisine is rich and interesting in true Caucasian style.

Excеrpt from thе “Baku” mеnu:

Summer dolma — 560 roublеs

Lamb chanakhi — 490 roublеs

Khash — 360 roublеs

Azerbaijan-style shashlik — 740 roublеs

Jyz-byz — 760 roublеs

“Tsar”

There are several other interesting establishments in the same building. And whereas “Begemot is Back” is more of a nocturnal entertainment venue, the “Tsar” restaurant, part of the Ginza Project (12 Sadovaya Ul. T: 640 1616) displays a competent approach to gastronomy. Chefs Roman Vasiliev and Anton Isakov manage to avoid kitsch “à la russe” while showing how rich and modern Russian cuisine can be.

Excеrpt from thе “Tsar” mеnu:

Crab salad with grilled vegetable marrow, rocket lettuce and pickled tomatoes — 750 roublеs

Pelmeni with Kamchatka crab and three types of fish — 990 roublеs

Venison with foxberry sauce and baked new potatoes — 1,690 roublеs

Chicken Kiev with fried potatoes and mushroom sauce — 1,190 roublеs

Duck breast with sauerkraut and wild berry sauce — 1,650 roublеs

“Ferma”

The “Ferma” confectioner’s (42 Sadovaya Ul. T: 643 0400) is popular with the discerning public. Some come here for brand chef Zinniat Akbashev’s laconic but interesting menu, some for the legendary cream buns and others for excellent pizzas cooked in a proper oven.

Excеrpt from thе “Fеrma” mеnu:

Blinchiki with cheese mousse and cold-smoked salmon — 210 roublеs

Aubergines baked with tomatoes and homemade cheese — 340 roublеs

“Tuscan” pizza (32 cm) — 460 roublеs

Cream bun — 53 roublеs

“Khochu Kharcho”

 

Perhaps the most in-demand restaurant in Sennaya Square is “Khochu Kharcho” (“I Want Kharcho”) (39/41 Sadovaya Ul. T: 640 1616), and not only because it is on two floors and is open round the clock. Brand chef Izo Dzandzava has compiled an excellent collection of Transcaucasian dishes, including not only classics (chanakhi, odzhakuri, shashlik and lyulya-kebab) but also dishes which are not often encountered in St. Petersburg, such as Megrelian chicken kharcho with gomi or Rachin-style lori.

Excеrpt from thе “Khochu Kharcho” mеnu:

Megrelian chicken kharcho with gomi — 560 roublеs

Georgian-style solyanka — 490 roublеs

Rachin-style lori — 720 roublеs

Chakhokhbili — 460 roublеs

Sturgeon shashlik — 1,390 roublеs

Magazine
Where St.Petersburg

November 2017



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