Saint Petersburg



DINING

Through the Cloudberries To the Rainbow

 
 

The River Moika is of interest to St. Petersburg’s visitors for two reasons: firstly because they can enjoy boat trips along the river from spring to late autumn, and secondly for the number of topclass restaurants along its banks.

“Moroshka (Cloudberries) for Pushkin”

To start from the very beginning, so to speak, the first building of interest on the right bank is the Round Market, designed by the great Giacomo Quarenghi. One of the Northern Capital’s most original restaurants opened in the building exactly two years ago: “Moroshka (Cloudberries) for Pushkin” (3a Nab. Reki Moiki. T: (921) 947 2500), where head chef Roman Palkin prepares contemporary Russian cuisine that is quite similar in style to Nordic cuisine and sommelier Yulia Tsakaya (Khaibullina) is always ready to offer customers something unusual from her superb collection of wines. You will find the restaurant entrance at the intersection of Krugly and Aptekarsky Lanes.

Excеrpt from thе “Moroshka for Pushkin” mеnu:

Strips of whitefish with honey-lemon dressing — 1,100 roublеs

Kamchatka crab salad with petals of baked celery — 1,130 roublеs

Primorsky scallop fried in a cast-iron pot with mousse of baked Jerusalem artichoke — 1,380 roublеs

Sturgeon steak with mousse of kohlrabi and sea asparagus — 2,100 roublеs

Baked ox rib with pickled radishes and ramson leaves — 1,500 roublеs

“China Gramota”

Literally across the lane is one of the well-known Moscow restaurateur Alexander Rappoport’s establishments: “China Gramota” (7 Nab. Reki Moiki. T: (921) 907 0710), a close relative of the restaurant of the same name in Moscow. After taking over from the cult PMI Bar, the previous inhabitant of this address, it opened in two stages — the ground floor and terrace opened in spring, and the other floors have been completed for the beginning of autumn. Customers are offered Cantonese cuisine — colourful and without overuse of sauces — prepared by Chinese maestro Zhang Xianchen.

Excеrpt from thе “China Gramota” mеnu:

“Bong-Bong” chicken — 460 roublеs

Black noodles with eel — 820 roublеs

Crispy sea wolf with celery and roast garlic — 480 roublеs

Crab in oyster sauce — 1,700 roublеs

Red fish according to Empress Tsin’s recipe — 680 roublеs

“Yat”

A little further on the other side of the Moika, almost at its intersection with the Winter Canal, you will find the “Yat” restaurant (16 Nab. Reki Moiki. T: 957 0023). Brand chef Alexander Pereverzev prepares creative interpretations of Russian and Soviet cuisine. If you have difficulty in making your choice, order the Large Tasting Set which includes six traditional Russian starters and six appropriate liqueurs. However, it is still better to familiarize yourself with the main menu — you will certainly find it worthwhile.

Excеrpt from thе “Yat” mеnu:

Olivier salad with beef, crawfish tails and red caviar — 470 roublеs

Sauerkraut shchi with beef under a puff pastry topping — 450 roublеs

Pozharsky rissoles with fried potatoes and wild mushrooms — 670 roublеs

Beef Stroganoff with white mushrooms and pureed potatoes — 820 roublеs

Seasonal homemade pie with a scoop of ice-cream — 270 roublеs

“Bellevue Brassserie”

The next stop is the Kempinski Moika 22 Hotel by Pevchesky Bridge (22 Nab. Reki Moiki. T: 335 9111), on the roof of which is the first-class “Bellevue Brassserie” French restaurant. The head chef, it goes without saying, is also French — the clever, technical and visionary Christophe Laplaza, but the menu actually includes a fair amount of Russian haute cuisine. This should not come as a surprise, though: the formal cuisine of the Russian Empire received a powerful “injection” from the French chefs who worked in almost every noble family in St. Petersburg.

Excеrpt from thе “Bеllеvuе Brassеriе” mеnu:

Kamchatka crab salad (starter) — 2,500 roublеs

Spicy prawn / scramble foam / tartare of green apples — 750 roublеs

Venison fillet / pistachio nuts / hazelnuts / bok choy cabbage — 1,900 roublеs

Crayfish / chanterelle / bisque — 1,350 roublеs

“Hermitage” dessert — 500 roublеs

“Taleon”

One of the long-standing “residents” of the Moika Embankment is the exclusive Taleon Hotel in the former mansion of the Eliseev merchant family on the corner of Nevsky Prospekt (59 Nab. Reki Moiki. T: 324 9911), with its haute cuisine restaurant of the same name. Alexander Dregolsky, one of the Northern Capital’s leading chefs, still plies his trade here. The cuisine is Russian, French and Italian, all in an elegant interpretation.

Excеrpt from thе “Talеon” rеstaurant mеnu:

Cannelloni with Kamchatka crab, spinach and ricotta cheese — 950 roublеs

Salad with tiger prawns, prosciutto di Parma and mango hutney — 1,450 roublеs

Grilled rack of lamb with baked vegetables and cream of aubergines — 2,450 roublеs

“MEGUmi”

Another amazing gastronomic venue is the “MEGUmi” restaurant in the Lotte Hotel which has literally only just opened near the Mariinsky Palace (2 Per. Antonenko. T: 336 1000). The menu is in the hands of the very well-known Moscow gourmet Munechika Ban . Everything is very refined, authentic and, needless to say, not cheap — genuine art always costs money. And the collection of sakes here is undoubtedly the best in the city.

Excеrpt from thе “MEGUmi” mеnu:

Tartare of “Blue Fin” o-toro with black caviar — 7,680 roublеs

Crispy “Kanzuri” prawns fried in spicy cream sauce — 1,480 roublеs

Spicy baked eel with pureed avocado — 1,200 roublеs

“Saikyo Yaki” Chilean sea bass with “Yuzu Miso” — 3,850 roublеs

“Hosho” steamed dorado with molluscs, “Botan” prawns, enoki mushrooms and “Beurre Blanc” sauce — 3,080 roublеs

“Dom”

On the other side of the Blue Bridge is the very interesting contemporary Russian restaurant “Dom” (72 Nab. Reki Moiki. T: 930 7272). Head chef Valery Gorinov has travelled widely around the world and has learned a great deal from working in top Michelinstarred restaurants (sufficient to mention Quique Dacosta). The result of these journeys is clear to see: the food is intricate but comprehensible.

Excеrpt from thе “Dom” mеnu:

Jellied oxtails with horseradish, mustard and soaked cranberries — 850 roublеs

Pelmeni with goose and pickled apple in a pomegranate — 500 roublеs

Wild mushroom soup (orange-cap boletus, brown and white mushrooms) with a shot of vodka — 550 roublеs

Halibut with pureed chanterelle mushrooms and mousse of herbs and pickled onions — 1,450 roublеs

Baked goose leg with spelt, baked apple and gooseberry sauce — 1,630 roublеs

“Arcobaleno”

The last stop on our gastronomic route is the “Arcobaleno” restaurant on the ground floor of the 5-star Domina Hotel St. Petersburg (99 Nab. Reki Moiki / 54 Bolshaya Morskaya Ul. T: 385 1292). “Arcobaleno” means “Rainbow” in Italian, but the menu is international with a substantial Russian section and head chef Sergey Maslov’s cuisine becomes more and more subtle and varied with each passing year.

Excеrpt from thе “Arcobalеno” mеnu:

Tartare of farm-produced beef on a bed of peaches and horseradish — 520 roublеs

Duck breast with spaetzle and fresh spinach — 850 roublеs

Beef Stroganoff with mushrooms in cream sauce and draniki — 890 roublеs

Mousse of wild mushrooms with honey moss and gorgonzola ice-cream — 330 roublеs

Homemade Snickers — 300 roublеs

Magazine
Where St.Petersburg

November 2017



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