Saint Petersburg



DINING

Choosing Your Target

 
 

The first half of 2018 turned out to be quite rich in new gastronomic establishments, but their ‘degree of brightness’ was not at all uniform…

“Bourgeois Bohemians”

The most important opening of 2018 so far is “Bourgeois Bohemians” (15 Vilensky Per. T: (911) 149 1770) or simply “BoBo” — the brainchild of chef Artyom Grebenshchikov (ex-‘Erarta’) and restaurateur Inna Preobrazhenskaya (ex-‘Paninaro’). The restaurant has turned out to be really classy, with Grebenshchikov’s trademark cuisine technical and colourful with numerous gimmicks. Whether the cuisine is French, contemporary Russian or the chef’s own inventions — the essence of his work remains the same. Every dish is a “birthday for the heart”. The menu is structured along “Michelin” lines: a shortish a la carte selection of 22 dishes, plus an evening “BoBo Signature” tasting set of nine courses (you can choose from two alternative wine accompaniments).

Excеrpt from thе “Bourgеois Bohеmians” mеnu:

Sea scallop with cucumber, daikon, cream with herring caviar and oil with dill — 470 roublеs

Mackerel with cream of avocado, tomatoes and yuzu — 390 roublеs

Crispy blini with white mushrooms, pears and foie gras — 570 roublеs

Duck breast with cherries and beetroot in three forms — 490 roublеs

Diaphragm of Angus beef with black truffles and vegetable ravioli with scorched onion — 650 roublеs

“Mr. Bo”

Another very promising project is “Mr. Bo” (2 Manezhny Per. T: (969) 711 2424), created by a duo of chefs from “Mansarda”: Dmitry Bogachev and Eldar Muradov. The chefs describe their brainchild as a “neo-bistro”, though it is essentially a fully-fledged restaurant with a well thought-out menu and a decent wine list. The gastronomic trend can be classified as a “play on Asia”, but you will not find traditional names of dishes on the menu — only a list of the main ingredients. So it is worth either questioning the waiter closely or trusting yourself “blind” to the chefs’ fantasies. Those who have eaten at “Mansarda” at least once will know that Dmitry Bogachev is a past master at that.

Excеrpt from thе “Mr. Bo” mеnu:

Salmon, pickled tomatoes and radish — 390 roublеs

Prawn, coconut and noodles (soup) — 290 roublеs

Breast of pork, couscous and carrot — 450 roublеs

Lamb tongue, broccoli, wasabi and shimeji — 480 roublеs

Cauliflower, scallops and bonito — 550 roublеs

“Shana”

Another significant new restaurant is “Shana” (8 Karavannaya Ul. T: (921) 940 0016). The initiator of the project was the well-known Moscow chef and restaurateur Uilliam Lamberti, who invited two colleagues from Tel Aviv to join him as partners. The chef chosen to interpret this trio’s ideas is the very same Vladimir Shchepilov who worked here before “Shana” opened. The cuisine, quite logically, is Mediterranean with a noticeable Middle Eastern accent.

Excеrpt from thе “Shana” mеnu:

Meze: humus, matbucha, tzatziki — 390 roublеs

Fried aubergines with feta and tahini — 450 roublеs

Humus with lamb — 450 roublеs

Fillet of duck with orzo and caraway seeds — 690 roublеs

Salmon steak with zucchini — 790 roublеs

“Umami”

There are also “unsung heroes” among the new arrivals, opened without ceremony, without star chefs or PR agencies but offering their customers honest and interesting food. One of these is undoubtedly the little “Umami” restaurant (3 Borovaya Ul. T: 925 7771), the brainchild of the owners of the neighbouring “Red Dragon” Asian shop. Chef Leonard Konvisher prepares dishes that are typical of Japan, Korea, China and Thailand with knowledge (he has specialized in Pan-Asian cuisine since 2005) and invention. Along with perfectly prepared classic dishes (kuksi, pho bo, ramen, tuna tataki, etc.) the menu includes, for example, makijushi (called rolls in these parts) with combinations that are not classic for Japan but blend ideally into Pan-Asian cuisine. Try the “eel and mango” — absolutely superb.

Excеrpt from thе “Umami” mеnu:

Tuna tataki sarada — 450 roublеs

Unagi mango roll — 390 roublеs

Kuksi — 350 roublеs

Yaki soba noodles — 350 roublеs

Moti — 190 roublеs

“Edim Rukamu”

Finger food, which is popular in Southeast Asia (and recently also in St. Petersburg), has been successfully introduced at “Edim Rukamu” (“We Eat with our Hands”) (41 Sadovaya Ul. T: 640 1616), part of the Ginza Project chain. Chef Alexander Stegerescu has included hits from all over the world in the menu: chicken wings cooked on an American grill, falafel in pitta bread, Sicilian arancini, rum baba, Turkish kebab, bao with chicken and so on. All the dishes (except the soups, of course) are intended to be eaten with the hands. Every customer is given a pair of latex gloves before their meal.

Excеrpt from thе “Edim Rukami” mеnu:

Prawns in batter Vietnamese-style with creamy curry — 390 roublеs

Shaverma in pitta bread with grilled chicken — 320 roublеs

Fried spring rolls with vegetables — 240 roublеs

Mussels in white wine — 530 roublеs

“Louisiana’s Choice” (selection of seafood) — 1,390 roublеs

“Tbilisiti”

Georgian cuisine is also in fashion with St. Petersburg’s restaurateurs and is represented more widely than any other among the “newcomers”, though the approach of each restaurateur is different. For example, all the chefs at “Tbilisiti” (10 Liteiny Pr. T: 950 0356) are natives of Georgia. This is, to a certain extent, a guarantee of the authenticity of the flavours and textures. By the way, a number of the dishes are quite rarely encountered in St. Petersburg: mtsare Megrelian-style, tsada, cauliflower in bazha and aubergines Tbilisi-style.

Excеrpt from thе “Tbilisiti” mеnu:

Aubergines Tbilisi-style — 250 roublеs

Gebzhalia — 200 roublеs

Chicken kuchmachi — 400 roublеs

Veal shashlik — 600 roublеs

Buglama — 800 roublеs

“Khacho and Puri”

On the contrary, at “Khacho and Puri” (29 Ligovsky Pr. T: 982 9229) the team of chefs is Russian, headed by Boris Klyuchenkov and Pyotr Loshakov. The interpretation of some dishes (for example, gebzhalia and chicken satsivi) differs somewhat from the accepted norm, but the restaurant already has plenty of admirers. And the khachapuri on a skewer, khashlama with mutton and sour cream cake will delight the most fastidious diner.

Excеrpt from thе “Khacho and Puri” mеnu:

Khashlama with mutton — 290 roublеs

Khachapuri on a skewer — 210 roublеs

Shaverma (58 cm) — 490 roublеs

Mutton lyulya-kebab — 520 roublеs

Pork shashlik — 430 roublеs

“DeDa Khinkali”

A third approach has been adopted by the wellknown restaurateur Igor Prasсhenko, who sent the team of chefs from one of the best Georgian restaurants in Sochi in advance of the opening of his new restaurant. As a result, the menu at “DeDa Khinkali” (1 Finlyandsky Pr. T: 643 0848) is very colourful, differing in places from the long-standing flavours in St. Petersburg. Chef Alexander Kazimirsky has made a serious study of his subject, so we can heartily recommend, for instance, the selection of pkhali, lobio, elardzhi, chicken satsivi and kharcho Megrelian-style. And those who find unexpected combinations interesting will enjoy the khinkali with burrata and prawns and the ganache of white chocolate with izabella.

Excеrpt from thе “DеDa Khinkali” mеnu:

Khinkali — 50 roublеs

Rolls of fried aubergines — 370 roublеs

Chicken satsivi — 360 roublеs

Chicken tabak — 520 roublеs

Ganache of white chocolate with Izabella — 270 roublеs

“Alpenhaus”

“Alpenhaus” (17 Yuzhnaya Doroga. T: 633 0088) is one of the restaurants which proved very appropriate during the World Cup — seating for over a thousand people, a huge screen and free-flowing beer from the restaurant’s own brewery (brewmaster Alexey Chernysh) at reasonable prices. The restaurant serves classic “beer” cuisine with all kinds of crispy snacks and its speciality sausages. A delight for football fans.

Excеrpt from thе “Alpеnhaus” mеnu:

Craft fried bread with dor-blu sauce — 350 roublеs

Crispy chicken legs (6) with barbecue sauce — 550 roublеs

Traditional German soup with sausages — 350 roublеs

Grilled sausages with Bavarian mustard and pretzels — 350 roublеs

Pork knuckle with crackling — 750 roublеs

Best Places by Where Rating



Magazine
Where St.Petersburg

October 2018



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